Heuriger

   For Austrians, and especially the Viennese, this term has two applications. The first, and more general, refers to the most recent (Germ.: heur = this year) available vintage of the local wine. This is usually white and comes from the Grüner Veltliner grape, which has a slightly sour undertone. It is considered Heuriger until 11 November, St. Martin’s Day, of the following year. Second, a Heuriger is a garden site where such wine is both sold and consumed, particularly in Vienna’s outlying districts, where productive vineyards still operate. Vienna has cultivated vineyards in and around the city at least from 1132 to the present. It is the only major city in the world with an extensive viticulture within its city limits. The diversity of its soils also allows for the cultivation of grapes for red wines and white Rieslings.

   Heuriger can be exceedingly modest, with only a few picnic tables and benches and a limited choice of bread, cheese, and cold cuts to accompany the beverage. They can also be quite elaborate, offering among other attractions Schrammel music. These are popular tunes played by a characteristically Austrian ensemble of guitars, violins, and accordion. The first director of such a group was Joseph Schrammel (1850–1893). Single entertainers who sing Wiener Lieder (Vienna songs) often perform in these places, too.

   A bundle or wreath of pine twigs hung above the entrance to the property advertises the presence of a true Viennese Heuriger within. The shrubs also announce to the thirsty that the grower is prepared to sell his or her wine. The right to dispense the vintage under this sign goes back to a patent issued by Emperor Joseph II in 1784. This has been incorporated into provincial law in Lower Austria, the Burgenland, and Styria. In 2006, there were around 180 Heuriger. While the traditional young wine is still drunk copiously on the spot, Heuriger also carry on an increasingly lively trade in a much higher quality bottled product. Real estate development in Vienna’s outlying districts, however, has sharply reduced the number of true Heuriger. From around 180 in the 1970s, only 12 survived by 2008 in the traditional wine garden area of Grinzing.